Surfing: Tranquil yet Challenging

Surfing is the ultimate sport. Riding the surf is extremely demanding both physically and mentally. Yet, surfers are often perceived as a mellow, relaxed group willing to embrace their stereotypes. The combination of a high-performance and high risk sport with its carefree community and atmosphere around the sport make it unique among all sports. Surfers are comfortable relaxing on the beach or riding high-powered waves capable of breaking bones and tossing bodies like ragdolls. Duality of the sport and the culture surrounding it make it appealing and worthwhile for me; surf culture matches my desires and personality. I consider myself lucky to know that I have found surfing and that I will continue to surf. The best way to live is to take risks and enjoy the successes that different experiences have to offer. The only way to live life is to experience it. Push the limit of comfortability and relish in the feeling of accomplishment. Through new challenges and activities, one can find oneself.

At ten years old, I had had some experience on a skateboard and snowboard so I decided to complete the trifecta of board sports: I signed up for surfing lessons. Hours later I was popping up and riding the surf in record time according to my teacher. I felt connected to the board and to the wave as soon as I got up. Instinctively, I made carving turns into the wave and let the force of the water push me. The teacher said I had an unparalleled instinct for reading surf and reacting accordingly. Seven years later, I feel at home in the water. I found what makes me happy and I will ensure that I can keep surfing. I first tried surfing blind to the potential dangers of the sport. The force of heavy waves can toss bodies, strong riptides can pull surfers out to sea, reefs and rocks can severely injure deposited surfers, and aquatic life such as manta rays and sharks are ever present. I continued surfing even in the face of these dangers; now I feel closer to myself and I know I have found something I love. Everyone should have one universal goal in life: work to do what makes you happiest. Sacrifice and strive to achieve personal goals; however, make sure that the goal is worth working for. Hours spent not pursuing a passion is time wasted. I strive to be successful in ways that make me happy, not other people. In the end, it is my life and I can choose how I want to live it: ultimate freedom.